Over the top (OTT) tee nursing hack
I've finally found time (ok bits of time here and there- thanks newborn 😂) to write my first tutorial.
I'm the kind of person who likes to buy a pattern based on how well it fits AND how much variety it offers. Well let me tell you, the over the top tee by little kiwi's closet is a really good fit (for me). I don't have to make any changes to the sizing and like that it's semi-fitted over the bust and looser around the stomach (especially if it's banded at the bottom).
It offers a colour blocked front and back option, different shoulder seam heights, hoody and pocket, as well as a dress and maternity option.
Here's the first OTT I've made, which was a full plain front panel and band at the hem. This is actually using a fat quarter of the patterned print!
Recently I posted about finding the perfect nursing tee.One of the hacks was based on the OTT and when I posted it in the little kiwis closet Facebook page Lydia (the owner and designer) suggested a photo tutorial. I've not written a tutorial before so forgive me if it's not perfect.
This is my first hacked OTT
and here is the one I'll show you today
Firstly I traced the color blocked front of the OTT pattern. This allowed me to have a copy of both shoulder pieces to work with.
Then I drew a line where I wanted the hem to sit. Mine is about 1.5" longer than the pattern called for. I just folded my back piece to mark this. Match up the arm pit lines to extend the color block piece. You only need to draw this down one side of your new pattern piece.
Based off my first hack attempt I knew I wanted my flaps longer and more crossed over to provide more stomach cover. I marked the half way point at the hem line so I knew how far over each flap would be. Because they're crossing over more I decided to start them in further at the "shoulder" seam (the front joining seam. This doesn't actually sit at the shoulder).
These are they two hack pieces over layed so you can see the different shapes.
Next cut out your pattern pieces. Including two mirror image of the new flap piece you just created.
Now comes the time for sewing!
If doing the color block back (like I did) sew this first. Then you want to sew the sides. Match the straight side of the flap to the back piece, right sides together. Hopefully this photo helps of it laid flat once sewn.
Once the sides are sewn you want to hem the entire piece. I find an iron and hemming tape really helpful here- especially around the curves.
Once it's hemmed we're ready to close up the "shoulders".
I'm not usually one for pinning when I sew, but I'd really recommend it in this instance. First I match up the two flaps right sides out so I can see the way I want them to sit. I match up the neckline and pin that, then match the shoulders together, remembering that I cut my flap to start about half way into the shoulder seam.*Pins around the neckline
*Pins on the over-lapping flaps
Then I flip it over and treating the over-lapping flaps as one piece pin it to the back, right sides together at the "shoulder" seam. I leave the pins in the neck until I add the neck band just so I know it doesn't shift.
Sew the "shoulder" seams.
Next we sew the sleeves in. Sew the sleeve long side right sides together to construct the sleeve. Then turn the sleeve right side out and slide it into the body (which should be inside out) and match right sides together. Sew around the armsye circle (much like you would a cuff).
Pull the sleeves through and attach cuffs or hem sleeves.
Attach the neck band as per instructions, being sure to catch both flap pieces and you sew around.
Now we're done! Here's a look at the final result: